1. Why Iceland?
In my head (Marta), the idea of Iceland sprouted for the first time 8 years ago, when Wizz Air flights from Katowice have been announced. As a big fan of the Sigur R贸s band, I took it as a matter of honour to visit my favourite band’s country. The guidebook has been on the shelf for several years, waiting for the right moment.
The year 2019 plan initially assumed Vietnam or Peru. Still, mainly due to poor cycling skills (me), lack of annual leave time (me), and money (both?), we have decided to venture into more secluded places but closer to us, though. As it turned out, not cheaper at all…
2. When did the journey start?
The journey really began when we bought the tickets. Then it was nothing for a very long time. Two months before departure, the machine got into motion. 馃槉
Two guidebooks, several maps, YouTube, prompting my sister and friends, browsing blogs and websites in search of practical information, and above all, the best places to see. We’ve modified the plan three times. Pawe艂 had to limit my drive to see everything literally and drive into every little corner and nook and cranny each time.
Anyway, while travelling, it was the same 馃槉
3. What was the goal?
Well, this goal has evolved, and it was no longer seeing as many attractions as possible, following the trail of waterfalls, geysers, and hot springs. We wanted to immerse in the highlands ( just a bit tho), feel Iceland in the lungs, legs, to see what is invisible at first glance, be and live close and in harmony with nature.
4. When did the trip end?
What seems to be the most beautiful thing about the whole journey is that it continues all the time. Writing this blog is its wonderful continuation.
5. What about icelandic weather?
Shortly after landing, the first thing I did was, obviously, to put on the second and third layers of clothes. 馃榾
Yes, it was cold, but as it turned out that night and the next one: it can always be worse:
at night the temperature at Landmannalaugar dropped to 2-3 degrees, feeling in about 0. I don鈥檛 think we really expected that. It took us a few days/nights to plan what to wear before sleeping. 馃榾
In the daytime, the temperature was between 6 and 18 degrees, depending on the region and elevation. I think that year, the weather was not too capricious.
Maybe twice, we didn鈥檛 leave the tent until 10 because of the rain, and we also had to change plans a few times, but we came back from Iceland 100% satisfied in the end.
So, in turn:
6. Landmannalaugar:
When we picked up the car keys, it was about 11 pm. It was a polar day, which helped us reach the campsite in Landmannalaugar, located about 200 km away.
It was raining, fatigue was rising, and the last 2 hours we were driving off roads. Still, luckily we arrived at our destination at 4am – we avoided going through two rivers.
We stopped at a distance of about 100m from the campsite. It was one of those colder nights/mornings, so we really were trying not to freeze 馃榾
After checking in, I realized I forgot one crucial thing while shopping at a gas station – namely a gas cartridge. 馃榾 We had almost everything: water, eggs, tea, coffee, cereal… but there was nothing to cook on. I鈥檝e had a terrifying vision of a holiday without hot, green tea. 馃榾
In general, we learned that day that you should avoid shopping at gas stations and at campsites too!
At the campsite, we paid the equivalent of three 500g containers for 100g!
Forgetful pay more and walk more!
It cost Pawe艂 a few extra walks to the car and back 馃榾 so he can easily add a few extra kilometers. 馃槉
Landmannaluagar is a must-see in Iceland! Views are absolutely out of this world.
This is where the Laugavegur trek begins going to the Thorsmork valley (we want to come back here and do that one) and even further to Skogar. We walked the initial section of it, which runs to the top of Brenninsteinsalda. The next day, we did the 18km Skalli loop which has been recommended by camping staff. The route was delightful … A vast panorama of glacial valleys, peaks, lava fields, sulfur fumaroles fields … And practically no people on the trail. After that cold night, we even bathed in the sun and the high spot of the whole weekend was an evening bath in a hot, sulfuric river.
7. 脼akgil
Our next goal was accommodation and hiking around Pakgil. We set off around 9 am with guests onboard, lovely girl Lemke with a dog companion who finished their 5day trekking in Laandmannalaugar. Thanks to her, we learned that the ubiquitous purple flowers (lupin!), brought to Iceland to fertilize the volcanic soil, spread to the extent that they became a weed. 馃槈
Lemke recommended the Lava Center museum, where she created exhibitions and installations. Unfortunately, we couldn鈥檛 get there as we wanted to take advantage of the weather at 100%. But we strongly recommend this place, the exhibition has won several awards.
We were heading towards Vik, passing several beautiful waterfalls along the way. If we stopped at any place, we would probably not reach our destination in two days 馃槉. But, it’s worth mentioning the Sk贸gafoss waterfall. A beautiful waterfall, lots of people, and an inability to contemplate, so after half an hour, we moved on. We entered the Dyrh贸laey headland. There is a panorama of the surrounding glaciers, the black beach, and the famous three trolls. We also had the opportunity to admire soaring puffins and eiders. In 15.05-25.06, this cliff is inaccessible to tourists due to strict protection during the breeding season.
Before turning onto 脼akgil, we stopped for the first real shopping in the supermarket. 馃槉 In particular, we were tempted by apples with their shiny deep red skin. Unfortunately, the taste wasn’t great. Generally, after shopping, we concluded that it鈥檚 hard to be a vegetarian (and vegan!) in Iceland. Yes, you don鈥檛 live by vegetables only. Still, Icelanders don鈥檛 grow anything except paprika and green cucumber. They import pretty much everything. But we got a vegetarian burger though馃槈
We finally got to the long-awaited point of the day! At 3 pm, we set off on an off-road road towards 脼akgil, which was already an attraction in itself! Every now and then, we crossed the surrounding hills and rock formations. The road meandered between the glacial mountains revealing equally impressive moraines.
WoW!
The views are reminiscent of scenes from the Lord of the Rings movie, The Narnia Labyrinth – they have something magical about them when Pakgil was the icing on the cake…
The camping ground is situated at the end, surrounded by hills and a path leading to a small waterfall, where birds chose rock shelves as their houses. It was a totally different world! Due to rain expected the next day, it was the only chance to get on the trail. We鈥檇 chosen a purple path, at the very beginning you have to cross the river…
Pawe艂 had jumped over the stream, barely dipping his shoe, but I was stubborn and wanted to get across it with dry feet.
After 30 minutes of fruitless searching for the best place, I buckled under pressure, took off my shoes and, crossed barefoot through this icy water. It wasn鈥檛 pleasant at all. And it wasn鈥檛 in the place marked on the map. I also recommend looking for your way. 馃槈
The first 20 minutes led up a steep path, we gained height very quickly, from where we could admire the camping views hidden in the valley.
We didn鈥檛 have much time, so we shortened the loop by turning onto the yellow trail – we were thinking about returning.
But we were still moving further away from our tent ;p
Our effort once again rewarded us by reaching the foot of Hafursey. We returned to the campsite before midnight … and the next morning, we were woken by the rain…
That’s how we have tried to dry our tent before packing to the car 馃榾
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